Food: The Newest Celebrity
Celebrity profiles are infamous, at this point, for their distinctive combination of erudition and ennui. Their adjective-happy explorations of hot-lady celebrities—brofiles, you could call them—treat their subjects, Slate’s Katy Waldman wrote, like “irreducible mysteries, floating so high above the mortal (male) writers that they can only be described in terms of their effects.” According to this analysis, “Celebritized food profiles — celebrations of, among other things, actual rump roasts — treat their own subjects with a similar mingling of mysticism and frustrated desire.”
